Šnek - user manual

 

 
 
 

version : 28/8/2010

• Šnek can sleep 3 persons (on beds!)
  
• 4 persons can travel in it (there are safety belts in the rear). Unfortunately, people in the rear are not very uncomfortable for driving and there is almost no view outside - seats are too high to see forward and rear side windows are quite small.
• there is no provision for child seat
• drivers cabin ergonomics - it is Land Rover Defender (see discusion of Defender's ergonomics on internet...)
  
• reversing - preferably co-driver should help, especially if there is any possibility of children or other vehicles in vicinity. Video camera above rear doors and small round mirrors help a lot but still...
  

• it is very easy to underestimate height of body (~2450 mm closed down and hit a tree branch, road sign or low roof of house/shop 
• Šnek is 5650mm long - too much for a standard parking space. Unless two in line are available, parallel parking may be the only option (or reverse into the parking space, if there is lawn or flower bed behind it) 
• Šnek is 2130mm wide, which makes trips on forest tracks difficult. If track is uneven, sway of body may add another half a meter each side, resulting in overall requirement of well over three meters. If there are low branches there may be a problem even if road itself is wide enough
  
• Weights at weighbridge during return from Perth (January 2003): front axis 1500 kg, rear axis 1980 kg total 3480 kg
  
• engine braking makes for more relaxed descents, manual downshift to 3 or 2 may be needed before there is any appreciable response (watch engine revs!). 
• hand brake is acting on transmission, not on wheels - 
• it should not be used while driving (it is parking brake only) 
• it is useless if one wheel is jacked up (unless differential lock is on) 
• it shows slack in gears - when applied and foot brake is released, car may roll a few centimeters - that is normal and cannot be eliminated by stronger force on brake lever 
• hand brake on this vehicle is very efficient and there is no need to apply excessive force
• car must not be ever driven on non-slippery surface with differential lock ON 
• the rule is: small gearstick has to be on the right side (close to T-bar) on hard surface 
• serious damage to drivetrain is possible if the vehicle is driven with differential lock ON on hard surface (the same applies to most 4x4s)
  
• to adjust external mirrors hex ("Allen") 4mm key is needed .They were treated by superglue as they refused to stay put at speed - please do not attempt adjustment if at all possible
• speedo has +error of almost 10 kmh (a bit more over 100, less around 60), eg if speedo is showing 90 you are doing 80
• best solution is to use GPS navigator as a speedo, they are usually perfectly accurate
  
• vehicle seems to be struggling when starting and very slow speed driving over soft / uneven surface - change to Low gearing makes it idle over almost anything. Change Lo to Hi and vice versa while auto is in N, manual brake off and footbrake on.
• close windows if driving in mud - front wheels aim for the opening :-)
• Power steering: the correct level of fluid is (surprisingly) between bottom mark and tip of the stick (see user manual for details)!
• You can expect 12-13 l / 100 km both on freeway and on dirt roads.
• You can expect maximum speed of ~ 115 km/h on level road if there is no unfavourable wind, but it can drop to 80 km/h with strong headwind.
• driving off blacktop
  
• check, that you are allowed to drive where you point the vehicle - off-road is prohibited in most places and tracks may be private or closed or require permit (aboriginal areas).
  
• "No alcohol in vehicle" rule applies in some aboriginal areas and penalties are draconian.
• Check, if you have enough fuel for the trip - plus reserve! - and where you will be able to get it again.
  
• Šnek inherited off-road ability of LandRover Defender but it is compomised by its body, its size, its weight and to some degree by its automatic gearbox. Do not expect that the road where Landrcrusier went provides sufficient profile for Šnek. Do not expect that any other 4x4 - almost certainly smaller - wold be able to pull you out of bog. Self recovery may be difficult - there is no provision for Hi-Lift Jack, Exhaust Jacks cannot be used and while there is electric winch in bullbar there is no way how to effciently pull back (or to the side). Reversing or turning on narrow difficult track would be nightmare or impossible.
  
• Sensible approach is to drive Šnek on tracks where you would probably get through in 2x4 and treat its off-road ability as no more than self-recovery option.
  
• engine should idle for at least 10 sec before it is switched off (otherwise turbo may be still turning but its bearings are no longer lubricated)

• "driver's key ring" 
• ignition key [12] 
• front door / fuel filler [13] 
• back door (golden with blue mark)[14] (different key nowadays)
  
• "appliances" 
• RS storage compartment  [11] 
• CC compartment and gas bottle compartment [8] 
• hot water [9] 
• water filler cap [10] (different key nowadays)
• key for towbar (not on this photo)

• diesel only, never petrol
  
• if petrol gets in the tank by mistake, it has to be removed and refilled, even petrol diluted with diesel can seriously damage the engine
  
• before driving in:
  
• hot water system has to be switched off 
• diesel heater has to be switched off
• fuel cap uses the same key as cabin doors [13] 
• it is a slow process, best approach is 
• avoid automatic switching by turning outlet 90-180 deg 
• fill slowly 
• keep small pool of diesel in inlet
• it helps if 
• there is slope away from diesel inlet
• drivers doors are closed
  
• left side doors are open 
• other person sits in the left side door
• Motor oil - Shell oil for diesel engines (black bottle) is in the external compartment

• 12-13 l / 100 for standard conditions -
• either sealed road 90-100 km/h
• or unsealed (not too bad) at 50-80 km/h
• that equals for fuel tank gauge from the right (approxiamtely) -
• first division 150 km
• second division 150 km
• third division 100 km
• last (red) division 250 km (most likely with very small reserve)
• altogether some 650 km blacktop or dirt...

• Disconnect 240V 
• Unplug power cord from C/Pk  power point 
• unplug power cord from socket on RS of Šnek 
• coil power cord and store (in outside compartment on LS if desired)
• Water system 
• switch off heater (if on) 
• switch off pump
• switch off flushing of chemical toilet
  
• Fridge 
• check that it is locked in the inside position
  
• Close poptop 
• open rear (or any other) door to let air out
• open shower door
• hang on both handles in the middle of ceiling until roof is in mid-stroke position (it is a stable position and the roof will not move up or down) 
• check if vinyl skirt folded inside and if not, pull it in by hand 
• check the vinyl skirt inside CC cubicle too 
• continue closing until the roof drops down 
• lock four latches [15] outside otherwise poptop will open at about 80 km/h (do not ask how we know...)
• short stick with rubber cap ("marshall's stick") may be used if latches are difficult to reach
  
• close shower door
• close rear door if desired
• Close rear doors 
• remove curtains from rear doors to provide better view to driver 
• check that all windows are closed 
• put outside step - if used - under the fridge
• close door 
• lock

• Junk food can be unobtrusively consumed with poptop down with just a little inconvenience

• Note: Take care - window winders have smallish plastic gears only

• to open window 
• fully unlock both shifting locks [24] 
• wind open using handle [35]
• swing windows tend to stick to rubber seal, when this happens push carefully outside to break the adhesion
• to close window 
• wind down using handle [35] 
• do not over tighten (see note above) 
• fully lock both shifting locks until they click [34]

• to partly open - 
• unlock handle and push up 
• to close - use red button on handle
• to remove completely (a brainteaser) 
• remove 
• unlock handle by pushing two toggles together 
• flip small flap on each hinge down from front edge 
• pull down and back
• install back 
• insert hinges back pushing up and forward 
• lock flaps back 
• align handle end and engage toggles

• it is controlled from small panel under steering wheel
• it is probably dead by now - we hardly ever used it
  

• it is installed under driver's seat 
• it is controlled from panel on dashboard 
• to operate 
• remove piece of rag (code name "mouse") from combustion air inlet under car in driver seat area: it is used to eliminate entry of mud into heater when off road
• set desired temperature range by turning dial 
• very low [18] 
• probably under 20 deg [19] 
• warm [30] 
• (or any other desired position...)
• these settings are not accurate, actual temperature depends on number of factors 
• flip switch [17] ON 
• wait, heater goes through - 
• number of self checking phases 
• automatic ignition sequence 
• a few minutes long measuring phase, when it is running on full 
• after properties of environment were established, heater will limit its heat output (minimum output is 800 W). 
• if minimum output still creates excessive temperature, heater will automatically cycle on/off (with setting [18] heater carefully cycled to maintain 15 deg during our trip to Tassie)
• to switch off flip switch [17] OFF 
• flame is extinguished instantly but heater will run for a few more minutes to cool itself down
• heater is using diesel from the main vehicle tank

• Raise poptop  if desired
• unlock four latches outside 
• open any door to let air in 
• push by both forearms against ceiling between both handles in the middle of ceiling until roof lifts 
• close door if desired
• Connect 240V if desired & available 
• get power cord (most likely from outside compartment on LS if desired) 
• plug power cord to socket on RS of Šnek 
• connect plug to C/Pk  power point

• Water system 
• switch on pump if required 
• switch on heater (if hot water is needed); the pump must be ON 
• mixing of water in shower area is as usual difficult. It is easier to go for shower approx. 10 - 20 min after heater is switched on. Water is lukewarm only and does not need much mixing if at all 
• rubbish bin on the compartment door can be rermoved and lid lifted for showering
• keep on mind, that gray water tank is about 30 l only and use shower sparingly If full pump may start intermittently
  
• gray water tank can be emptied in suitable places (roadside)  
• valve [7] (RS under vehicle) must be closed 
• when driving [failure to do so  is apparently costly and most certainly embarrassing] 
• in C/Pk / camping ground [common courtesy]
• water tank (80 l) can be filled up using hose located most likely in outside compartment on LS 
• hose is likely to be connected to itself to avoid dripping in compartment, 
• get connecting fittings from the box in the same area 
• disconnect hose and connect fitting 
• screw hose on water outlet 
• open filler behind cabin - RS 
• fill until water overflows 
• do not forget to remove screw-on part from water outlet when finished
• drink water quality hose (white) is to be used
  

• all appliances in living section are driven from auxiliary 12V system (deep cycling battery under RS seat) 
• roof lights 
• reading spotlights 
• night LED light 
• fridge (the most power hungry one!)
  
• various sockets 
• diesel heater 
• operational power for gas water heater 
• operational power for toilet flushing
• auxiliary 12V system is supplied from two possible resources 
• 240V converter/charger under RS seat
  
• if auxiliary battery is flat, starting battery is not affected, starting battery cannot be flattened from camper section appliances
  
• the voltage of house battery is on small meter in 12V control area
  

• open sided 19 size wrench is needed to replace gas bottles 
• suitable shifter is stored in gas bottle compartment or beside driver's seat
  
• Note: gas thread is left handed ( see notches on the nut ) and it works in the opposite direction to all common threads !!

• to ignite burner 
• get lighter from the drawer 
• turn desired knob and press down 
• light burner 
• keep knob pressed for a few seconds  
• there is a safety temp sensor behind each burner which has to be heated

is gone - holding screws did not survive corrugations at National Parks in WA and we decided that the space can be used better anyway...

• pump [5] must be ON 
• there have to be enough fresh water in tank (use monitor [6]) 
• flip heater switch [3] 
• after it is switched on red light came on for a few seconds and it is normally possible to hear gas burner 
• it takes at least 20 min to get hot water if outside temperature is around 15 deg 
• heater is thermostat controlled 
• heater is to be switched off when traveling
  
• heater is to be switched off before driving in petrol station

• Note [4] is LED night light switch

• Table to double bed 
• loosen all three star knobs 
• lift the table and remove middle section of the leg 
• put middle section of the leg aside for future use 
• carefully deposit table between both seats 
• insert end fillings both sides 
• rearrange cushions to form the bed
  

• Double Bed to table 
• put middle section of the leg on the bottom section 
• carefully deposit table on the leg 
• reposition table to desired position 
• tighten all three star knobs 
• rearrange cushions to form backrests

• Overhead Bed
• single adult bed
  
• it was never used so far - we tend to use this area for storage
• it is possible to remove the central sectopn of the Overhead Bed to create bigger living area.
  

• Usage 
• before use
  
• open seat valve by turning knob [21] CCW 
• open lid [20] and use as usual
  
• in this order, if there is slight pressure in tank it can blow some mist in your face
  
• after use
  
• push knob [21] down to flush (sparingly, if possible) 
• do not attempt to close seat valve until completely empty
• if electric flushing does not work, check if there is enough flushing water and refill
  
• shower can be used to flush if [21] operated flushing is not working (take care not to overdo it...)
• wait a few seconds to drain water 
• close seat valve by turning knob [21] CW 
• check dial [22] if still deep in green or look inside before closing
• warning: as soon as dial starts to move to the right, it is time to empty the tank. Manufacturer claims that the whole scale of this gauge is the last 1/4 of tank but experience shows, that it may be even less (or it never goes fully to the right). Misjudging of this may cause a serious mess...
  
• compartment [23] is for toilet paper but it is useless unless you like the soggy variety
• To empty (read the manual...?) 
• prepare action 
• find out where to dump "black water" or "cartridge toilet tank" (ask at Park Office) 
• investigate the place, plan your action and how you will wash your hands 
• unlock CC compartment and open 
• get rubber gloves from outside compartment on LS if required
  
• make sure, that bowl valve is fully closed by turning knob [21] CW , if you try to move cartridge while the bowl valve is open the system will be broken
  
• remove tank [26] (it is 20 l so it is unlikely to be very heavy) 
• push the flap [25] on the bottom of compartment 
• pull by handle (there is a stop before it falls out) 
• grab second handle and remove by lowering outside handle 
• carry away using top handle (where swing outlet is located)
• at dumping site 
• turn swing outlet [26]  ~180deg 
• undo cap 
• start pouring 
• as soon as it is inclined, push air valve button on the other end 
• even with air valve open there is a tendency for some splashing - pour carefully 
• if dump place is hole in ground , push outlet a bit inside (the best option) 
• when empty, close cap and take to place, where tank chemical will be added
• recharging of liquids
• replacement liquids and rubber gloves are in gas bottles compartment 

• tank chemicals - after emptying
• add thorough emptying outlet [26], never thorough the bowl 
• add ~100 ml of chemical (or read what is on the bottle)
• add ~ 2 l of water 
• close 
• insert (push) tank back in compartment
• flush chemicals - when you run out of flushing liquid or if low in supply tank (there is a level gauge in the compartment)
• swing open small filler [24] above tank 
• undo the cap 
• pour in 100 ml of flushing liquid 
• add water until overflows 
• close cap and swing close
• enjoy holidays again...
• emergency emptying if overfilled 
• do not try to remove tank or close seat valve inside 
• get some bucket 
• swing emptying outlet out of vehicle 
• undo its cap and let partly drain contents into bucket 
• close the cap 
• empty the rest normal way

as usual...